Top 10 Plants for Honey Bees: Best Nectar and Pollen Plants for a Full-Season Bee Garden

Honey bee gathering nectar from pale purple rosemary flowers from one of the top 10 plants for honey bees

The top 10 plants for honey bees are willow, clover, borage, bee balm, anise hyssop, lavender, coneflower, sunflower, goldenrod, and aster. These plants provide honey bees with a useful mix of nectar and pollen across spring, summer, and fall. This matters because honey bees need nectar for energy and honey production, and pollen to support brood development and colony strength.

The best plants for honey bees aren’t always the showiest flowers. They’re the ones that provide a dependable source of nectar and pollen throughout the entire growing season, helping colonies thrive from spring through fall.

To provide honey bees with reliable forage throughout the growing season, BBB Seed’s Honey Source Mix is a great place to start.

Quick Answer: The Top 10 Plants for Honey Bees

Plant Bloom Season Why Honey Bees Like It Best Use
Willow Early spring Early pollen and nectar source Large landscapes, wet areas, habitat plantings
Clover Spring to fall Nectar, pollen, lawn, and field adaptability Lawns, fields, cover crops, larger plantings
Borage Summer Long bloom period and heavy bee activity Gardens, herb beds, pollinator patches
Bee balm Summer Nectar-rich flowers that attract many pollinators Landscapes, perennial beds, native gardens
Anise hyssop Summer Abundant flowers and strong bee appeal Sunny beds, low-water plantings, mass plantings
Lavender Summer Nectar source, fragrance, structure Dry, sunny landscapes and garden borders
Coneflower Summer to fall Open centers with accessible pollen and nectar Perennial beds, prairie gardens, retail landscapes
Sunflower Summer to fall Large, accessible flower heads Gardens, field edges, educational plantings
Goldenrod Late summer to fall Late-season nectar and pollen Meadows, naturalized areas, prairie plantings
Aster Late summer to fall Fall forage when other blooms fade Native gardens, borders, habitat plantings

For a simple nationwide list, these are the plants to plant for honey bees. Then adjust by region, soil, water needs, sun exposure, available space, and project size.

What Makes a Plant Good for Honey Bees?

Several factors to consider when choosing plants for honey bees include:

  1. Quality nectar and pollen resources. Nectar gives honey bees carbohydrates for energy and honey production. Pollen provides protein, fats, and nutrients that support brood development and colony strength.
  2. Bloom time matters because colonies need food in spring, summer, and fall.
  3. Flower structure matters because bees need access to the nectar and pollen.
  4. Plant density matters because bees forage more efficiently from grouped plantings.
  5. Safe sourcing matters because pollinator plants should not expose bees to harmful pesticide residues.

The Top 10 Plants for Honey Bees

1. Willow

Willow catkins covered in yellow pollen in early spring

Willow is one of the first dependable food sources of the year, supplying both nectar and pollen just when colonies are waking up, expanding, and preparing for the busy months ahead.

Willows are especially useful in larger landscapes, naturalized areas, wet sites, drainage zones, restoration projects, and habitat plantings. They are not the right fit for every small yard because many willow species need space and moisture, but where they fit, they can be extremely valuable.

Best for: beekeepers, landowners, restoration projects, larger landscapes, habitat corridors
Planting note: Choose a willow species suited to your region, soil moisture, and available space.

2. Clover

White Dutch clover blossoms blooming in green turf

Clover is one of the most practical plants for honey bees because it works in more places than many ornamental flowers. It can fit into lawns, fields, cover crop systems, orchard alleys, pasture edges, and larger-scale plantings. White Dutch Clover is one practical option for lawns, ground cover, erosion control, and bee-friendly plantings.

For beekeepers and wholesale buyers, clover is especially useful because it is scalable. You are not limited to a small flower bed. Clover can support larger forage areas.

A homeowner might add clover to a bee lawn. A beekeeper might think about nearby fields. A landscaper might use it in a lower-input lawn strategy. A wholesale buyer might look at it as part of a broader pollinator program.

Best for: bee lawns, cover crops, orchards, fields, large landscapes
Planting note: Choose the right clover for the site, traffic level, and local growing conditions.

3. Borage

Blue star-shaped borage flower with a dark center

Borage is one of my favorite summer plants for honey bees. Bees work it heavily, and when conditions are right, it keeps producing flowers for a long period.

Borage is especially useful in herb gardens, vegetable gardens, pollinator strips, and mixed annual plantings. It is easy to grow and brings a lot of bee activity into a sunny planting. For more herb garden ideas, BBB Seed’s guide to herbs for the bees is a helpful next read.

Best for: gardeners, beekeepers, herb beds, annual pollinator patches
Planting note: Borage can reseed, so place it where that is acceptable.

4. Bee Balm

Pale pink bee balm, also called Monarda, in summer bloom

Bee balm, also called Monarda, is an excellent summer-blooming choice for honey bees and other pollinators.

Bee balm works well in perennial beds, native gardens, cottage gardens, meadow edges, and pollinator landscapes. It is especially useful when planted in groups.

I like bee balm because it serves multiple audiences. Gardeners enjoy the color. Landscapers can use it as a showy perennial. Beekeepers benefit from another summer forage source that also attracts native bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.

Best for: perennial beds, native gardens, pollinator landscapes, retail plant programs
Planting note: Give bee balm good airflow and match the variety to your local climate, especially in humid regions where powdery mildew can be an issue.

5. Anise Hyssop

Bee foraging on a purple anise hyssop flower spike

Anise hyssop is one of the best bee plants for honey-focused gardens because it produces abundant nectar-rich flowers and draws steady bee activity in summer. It also has a tidy enough form for designed landscapes, which makes it useful for both residential and commercial plantings.

I have seen anise hyssop perform well along the Colorado Front Range, especially in sunny, lower-water plantings around places like Gunbarrel, Louisville, and Lafayette. In other regions, the exact species or variety may change, but the idea stays the same: use durable plants with abundant flowers that offer nectar and pollen.

Best for: sunny perennial beds, Western gardens, water-wise plantings, mass plantings
Planting note: Plant in groups for a stronger visual impact and easier bee foraging.

6. Lavender

Lavender flower spikes blooming in a sunny, well-drained garden

Lavender is another strong option where the climate supports it. It is not the right answer for every site, especially humid areas or poorly drained soils, but when lavender is planted in the right place, bees usually find it quickly.

For landscapers, lavender can add structure, fragrance, and a clean visual line. For beekeepers, it adds another nectar source. For gardeners, it is easy to grow and easy to love.

Lavender is especially useful in dry, sunny regions, Western gardens, Mediterranean-style landscapes, and borders. It can struggle in heavy clay, wet winter soils, and humid climates, so site selection matters.

Best for: dry sunny borders, Western landscapes, low-water gardens, mass plantings
Planting note: Prioritize full sun, good drainage, and varieties suited to your winter hardiness zone.

7. Coneflower

Yellow, dark-centered coneflower blooms in a perennial bed

Coneflower is a simple and recognizable honey bee plant. It works well in perennial gardens, prairie-style plantings, public landscapes, and retail plant programs.

The key is to choose flower forms bees can actually use. I prefer single, open flower forms over heavily doubled ornamental varieties because bees need access to the flower’s center.

Coneflowers also pair well with other plants for honey bees, including bee balm, anise hyssop, black-eyed Susan, mountain mint, blazing star, goldenrod, and asters.

Best for: gardeners, landscapers, prairie plantings, perennial beds
Planting note: Choose open-centered varieties and avoid highly doubled forms if bee value is the priority.

8. Sunflower

Open sunflower head with accessible pollen and nectar for bees

Sunflowers are simple, recognizable, and useful. They can provide pollen and nectar, and they are easily recognizable to customers, crews, and homeowners. They also work in many planting styles, from backyard gardens to field edges.

For honey bees, the best sunflowers are usually open, pollen-bearing types. Some ornamental or pollenless cut-flower varieties are bred for vase life and cleanliness, not bee forage. If your goal is to support honey bees, choose varieties that provide accessible pollen and nectar.

Sunflowers are also useful because they help connect people to the planting. Kids recognize them. Customers recognize them. Gardeners enjoy them. That makes them among the easiest plants for honey bees to plant when education and visibility matter.

Best for: gardens, farms, educational landscapes, field edges, pollinator strips
Planting note: Choose pollen-bearing varieties and plant enough for bees to forage efficiently.

9. Goldenrod

Golden goldenrod plumes blooming in late summer

Goldenrod is one of the most important late-season plants for honey bees. Late summer and fall are when many bee gardens fail, and goldenrod helps fill that gap.

If you want the best nectar-producing plants for honey bees, do not ignore the end of the season. Honey bee colonies still need forage as they prepare for winter, and late-blooming plants can make a meaningful difference in the landscape.

In late summer, here in Boulder County, I pay close attention to what is still blooming. Goldenrod is one of the plants I like to see because it extends the forage window when many earlier flowers are finished.

Best for: late-season forage, meadows, native gardens, prairie plantings, naturalized landscapes
Planting note: Choose regionally appropriate goldenrod species, especially for designed landscapes where height and spread matter.

10. Aster

Purple aster flowers blooming in fall

Asters are excellent late-season bee plants because they bloom when many gardens are running out of flowers. They pair naturally with goldenrod, and together they can keep a pollinator planting active into fall.

Asters are especially valuable in Midwest and Western plantings where late-season bloom matters. They work in native gardens, prairie-style landscapes, meadow edges, perennial borders, and restoration projects.

Best for: fall forage, prairie plantings, native gardens, perennial borders
Planting note: Choose native or regionally adapted asters when possible.

Bloom Sequence Matters More Than One Big Flush of Flowers

Mixed pollinator garden bed with lavender, yellow, and pink blooms

A honey bee garden can look great in June and still fail bees later in the season. I have seen this happen around Boulder, including gardens near Table Mesa and North Boulder that look full early in summer but have very little bloom by July or August.

The stronger approach is to build a bloom sequence:

  1. Early bloomers for spring buildup.
  2. Summer workhorses for peak activity.
  3. Late-season nectar and pollen plants for fall preparation.

Colorado State University Extension recommends choosing plants with bloom times from early spring to late fall so flowers are available throughout the pollinator activity season.

That same principle applies across the U.S. Whether you are planting in Colorado, the Midwest, the Northeast, the South, or the West Coast, the goal is not just to choose attractive flowers. The goal is to keep useful forage available from early spring through fall.

Best Honey Bee Plants by Bloom Season

A strong honey bee planting is not just a top 10 list. It is a sequence. Use the top 10 plants as your foundation, then add regional plants that fill any seasonal gaps.

Season Goal Plant Examples
Early spring Help colonies build up after winter Willow, fruit trees, clover, serviceberry, penstemon
Summer Support peak foraging and nectar flow Borage, bee balm, anise hyssop, lavender, coneflower, sunflower, mountain mint, blazing star
Late summer and fall Extend forage before winter Goldenrod, aster, sedum, late salvia, native sunflowers, Joe Pye weed where appropriate

USDA recommends planting a continuous food supply with different species blooming across spring, summer, and fall.

Late summer and fall are when many plantings fall short. Goldenrod and aster are my top recommendations here, but sedum, late salvia, mountain mint, and regionally appropriate native perennials can also help extend forage. For more ideas, see BBB Seed’s guide to fall-blooming plants for pollinators.

Regional Planting Notes for the Midwest and Western U.S.

Map of the United States highlighting the Midwest and Western regions

The best plants for honey bees vary by region, but the strategy stays the same: choose nectar and pollen plants that bloom across the full season and fit the site. For larger projects, regional wildflower mixes can help match seed choices to the area where they will actually be planted.

Region Strong Choices Notes
Midwest Clover, coneflower, sunflower, goldenrod, aster, blazing star, mountain mint, prairie clover, milkweed, bee balm Prairie-style and meadow-style plantings can provide long bloom windows and strong pollinator value.
Western U.S. Anise hyssop, lavender where drainage is good, penstemon, salvia, goldenrod, aster, sunflower, rabbitbrush, native milkweed, blanket flower Water use, drainage, sun exposure, and climate adaptation matter.
Nationwide Willow, clover, borage, bee balm, coneflower, sunflower, goldenrod, aster, fruit trees, regionally adapted native plants Choose plants that grow well enough in your region to bloom reliably.

In my experience along the Colorado Front Range, the best results come from matching the plant to the actual site. A sunny, lower-water planting near Lafayette or Louisville needs different choices than a shaded, irrigated garden bed in another region.

Before ordering or planting, check:

  • USDA hardiness zone
  • Sun exposure
  • Soil drainage
  • Water availability
  • Humidity
  • Heat tolerance
  • Mature size
  • Bloom season
  • Whether the plant is invasive in your region
  • Whether it was grown with pollinator-safe practices

Lacy phacelia is another useful bee plant to consider, where it fits the site. BBB Seed carries Lacy Phacelia, and its article About Lacy Phacelia offers more detail on this pollinator-friendly plant.

Tips for Landscapers, Beekeepers, Gardeners, and Wholesale Buyers

Colorful beehive boxes set in a wildflower meadow

Different buyers may use the same honey bee plants in different ways. A gardener may want a small pollinator bed. A beekeeper may be thinking about forage near hives. A landscaper may need a reliable plant palette. A wholesale buyer may need seed or plant material that works across larger projects.

Plant in Groups So Bees Can Forage Efficiently

Do not scatter one of everything across a property and expect the same impact as a strong mass planting. Bees forage more efficiently when they can move through a cluster of the same plant. The U.S. Forest Service also recommends planting in clumps rather than isolated single plants.

For landscapers, this also looks better. For beekeepers, it can improve forage efficiency. For wholesale buyers, it helps you think in trays, flats, and project quantities instead of one-off plant choices.

Choose Single, Open Flowers Over Heavily Doubled Blooms

One of the biggest mistakes I see in pollinator planting is choosing only for color instead of food value.

Single, open flowers usually give bees better access to pollen and nectar. Heavily doubled blooms may look dramatic, but they are often less useful to bees. This matters when selecting coneflowers, sunflowers, roses, zinnias, dahlias, and other ornamentals.

The prettiest catalog photo is not always the best bee plant.

Think Beyond the Backyard

Honey bees foraging on white clover growing in a bee lawn

For gardeners, a pollinator bed is a great start. For beekeepers, landscapers, and larger buyers, the bigger opportunity may be across the whole property or community.

Think about:

  • Bee lawns
  • Clover areas
  • Orchard edges
  • Field borders
  • Roadsides
  • Drainage areas
  • Meadows
  • Farm lanes
  • Public landscapes
  • Commercial properties

Honey bee forage does not have to come from one perfect garden. It can come from many practical plantings across a property or community.

Landscapers, beekeepers, and large-scale buyers can explore BBB Seed’s pollinator mixes or apply for a wholesale account for wildflower seeds, native grasses, regional mixes, and pollinator mixes.

Ask About Systemic Insecticides Before Buying Bee-Friendly Plants

Close-up of mixed sunflower seed

A plant marketed as “bee-friendly” is not truly bee-friendly if the pollen or nectar may carry harmful residues. This is especially important for landscapers and wholesale buyers because they are often planting on a larger scale.

Xerces offers guidance on choosing bee-safe nursery plants, including why buyers should ask about neonicotinoids and similar systemic insecticides.

Questions to ask before buying:

  • Were these plants grown with neonicotinoids or other systemic insecticides?
  • What pest management practices were used?
  • Are pollinator-safe production practices available?
  • Are organic plants or seeds available?
  • Can you provide untreated or pollinator-conscious options for wholesale orders?

Safe sourcing should be part of the planting plan, not an afterthought.

Native and Regional Alternatives Worth Considering

Honey bees feeding on orange butterfly weed blossoms

The top 10 plants for honey bees are a strong starting point, but you should adjust the list with native and regionally adapted plants wherever possible. Xerces provides regional native plant lists to help gardeners and landscapers choose pollinator-friendly plants.

Depending on your region, consider adding or substituting:

  • Milkweed
  • Mountain mint
  • Penstemon
  • Blazing star
  • Salvia
  • Prairie clover
  • Serviceberry
  • Fruit trees
  • Sedum
  • Yarrow
  • Blanket flower
  • Native sunflowers
  • Rabbitbrush in parts of the West
  • Joe Pye weed, where suitable
  • Lacy phacelia, where appropriate

Native plants are often a strong choice because they are adapted to local conditions and support broader pollinator ecosystems. For honey bees specifically, I like to use native plants and proven bee forage plants together. Honey bees are generalist foragers, so the best planting is usually diverse, practical, and regionally appropriate.

For a deeper related read, BBB Seed also has a guide to the best plants for honey bees.

FAQs About Plants for Honey Bees

Honey bees covering honeycomb inside a hive

What is the best plant for honey bees?

There is no single best plant for every region, but clover is one of the most practical choices because it can work in lawns, fields, cover crops, and larger landscapes. For early spring, willow is excellent where it fits the site. For summer, borage, bee balm, anise hyssop, lavender, coneflower, and sunflower are strong choices. For fall, goldenrod and aster are hard to beat.

What plants produce the most nectar for honey bees?

Some of the best nectar-producing plants for honey bees include clover, borage, lavender, anise hyssop, goldenrod, aster, bee balm, and certain flowering trees. Nectar production varies by species, variety, region, weather, soil, and plant health, so it is better to plant a sequence of nectar plants than rely on one option.

Is clover good for honey bees?

Yes. Clover is one of the best plants for honey bees because it provides nectar and pollen and can be used in lawns, fields, and larger landscapes. White clover is especially practical because it fits low-growing bee lawns and is widely recognized as a honey bee forage plant.

Is lavender good for honey bees?

Yes, lavender can be very good for honey bees when planted in the right climate and soil. It performs best in full sun with excellent drainage. It is an excellent choice for dry, sunny landscapes, especially in parts of the West, but it may struggle in humid or poorly drained locations.

Are sunflowers good for honey bees?

Yes, sunflowers can be good for honey bees, especially open, pollen-bearing varieties. Avoid pollenless cut-flower varieties if your main goal is bee forage. For pollinator value, choose sunflowers with accessible centers and plant enough for bees to forage efficiently.

What fall-blooming plants should I plant for honey bees?

For fall, plant goldenrod, asters, sedum, late-blooming salvia, native sunflowers, long-blooming annuals, and regionally appropriate late-season perennials. Goldenrod and asters are two of my favorite late-season recommendations because they help extend forage when colonies are preparing for winter.

What flowers should I avoid in a honey bee garden?

Avoid relying heavily on flowers that are bred only for appearance, especially heavily doubled flowers where bees cannot easily access nectar or pollen. Also, avoid plants treated with systemic insecticides or plants that are invasive in your region.

Should I choose native plants for honey bees?

Yes, native plants are often a smart choice, especially when they are matched to your region and site conditions. However, the best honey bee planting can include a mix of native plants, herbs, annuals, perennials, shrubs, and trees. The goal is full-season nectar and pollen from plants that grow well where you are planting.

Final Takeaway: Build a Bee Planting That Feeds Colonies All Season

Honey bee collecting pollen on a bright yellow flower

If I had to give a clear nationwide answer, my top 10 plants for honey bees are willow, clover, borage, bee balm, anise hyssop, lavender, coneflower, sunflower, goldenrod, and aster.

But the real strategy is bigger than the list. Choose early bloomers, summer workhorses, and late-season nectar plants. Plant in groups. Favor open flowers over heavily doubled blooms. Match the plant to your region. Ask about pesticide practices before buying. And remember that the best plants for honey bees are the ones that provide nectar and pollen when honey bees need them most.

Best Flowers for Honey Bees: What to Plant for Nectar and Pollen All Season

Best Flowers for Bees: What to Plant for a Pollinator-Friendly Garden

About Lacy Phacelia

Wildflower Seeds

by Heather Stone

Photo of a bee on a Lacy Phacelia blosson.

Image by Cydonia from Pixabay

One of my favorite plants began blooming this week, Lacy phacelia, Phacelia tanacetifolia, so I wanted to take a moment to tell you all about Lacy Phacelia. It has many common names including lacy scorpionweed, tansy leaf phacelia, blue tansy, purple tansy and my favorite, bee’s friend. Clusters of light blue-violet flowers that unfurl in a fiddlehead shape sit atop attractive fern-like foliage. Reaching heights of 1-3 feet and blooming for 6-8 weeks this fast-growing wildflower is an excellent addition to any garden. It also makes an excellent cut flower. 

 

Native to the southwestern United States, this easy to grow annual does well in hot, dry conditions but easily adapts to a variety of site conditions. Lacy phacelia seeds germinate readily in 15-30 days. Sow seeds early in the spring while there is still a possibility of frost. Ideal soil temperatures for best germination are between 37-68 degrees F. Press seeds gently into the soil at a depth of ⅛-¼”. 

 

It’s not only the lovely blue-violet flowers that make lacy phacelia one of my favorite plants. Lacy Phacelia is well known for its ability to attract bees and butterflies to an area. It is a heavy nectar producer and is listed in the top 20 pollen-producing flowers for honeybees. Having this source of high-quality nectar and pollen means you’ll be attracting many native bees, bumblebees, honey bees and butterflies to your garden. I have these flowers growing near my front porch and just this week I counted 4 different varieties of bees on the few flowers that just started blooming. 

Unfurling blossom of Lacy Phacelia.

Image by rihaij from Pixabay

Trying growing lacy phacelia near your vegetable garden to increase your yields. 

Lacy phacelia also does well in containers. These containers can then be moved to different areas of the garden that need pollination. The benefits of Lacy phacelia as a cover crop are becoming more popular. It is widely used in Europe as it aggressively outcompetes weeds and absorbs excess nitrates and calcium from the soil. But it’s most important contribution is its pollinator-attracting power. 

 

Lacy phacelia readily self sows so removing flower heads before they set seed helps limit any unwanted volunteers. Though when you see these beautiful flowers and how many pollinators they attract to the garden you might want to let a few of these wildflowers go to seed. 

The Complete Milkweed Buying Guide

Photo of a colorful Monarch catapiller feeding on a milkweed leaf.

What Species of Milkweed is Best For You

By Sam Doll

Monarch Butterflies are amazing North American animals! Their iconic, colorful wings are actually warnings for potential predators. Those spots and strips are big caution signs saying: STOP; I TASTE BAD!

Every year, the Monarchs embark on one of nature’s most astonishing mass migrations. This incredible journey takes four generations and covers over 3000 miles through the United States, Mexico and Canada.

Monarch mothers will only lay their eggs on milkweed plants (genus Asclepias) and, once hatched, their caterpillars exclusively live on and eat the leaves of those same plants. They cannot survive without them.

The problem is that milkweed has gotten a bad rap over the years. Allergies and perceptions of the wildflower as a weed have caused it to be wiped out throughout large portions of North America. The prevalence of pesticides has not helped and the loss of milkweed, wildflowers, and other floral resources has devastated the monarch butterfly’s population.

It’s not without hope, though! Everyone can do their part to help. The most important thing you can do is to plant more milkweed on your property and in your community. This guide to purchasing milkweed seed will help you figure out which species of milkweed is best for you, and you can help Monarch Butterflies!

Oh, and while you’re at it, check out our Monarch Rescue Wildflower Mix. It has Butterfly Milkweed and a mix of other wildflower seeds to provide a nectar-rich place for Monarch Butterflies to fuel up and raise their young! Find it here!

1.     Common MilkweedClose-up of the Common Milkweed flower.

The Common Milkweed is a hardy perennial with fragrant, terminal blossoms made up of tiny dusty-pink blossoms on hairy stems.  This milkweed is found throughout the Great Plains and is tough enough to tolerate most soil conditions. It does well in soils that are clay, sandy or rocky calcareous (high in calcium carbonate). These conditions occur naturally along stream banks, ponds, lakes, forest margins, and roadsides. Common Milkweed grows 2′ – 6′ tall and like areas with full sun. They bloom from June through September and will germinate between 65° and 85° F.

This milkweed is also a favorite of other butterflies, native bees and hummingbirds. The seeds will grow easily and do well when planted in the fall or when cold-treated for three months prior to planting.  Common Milkweed will spread both through seed normal distribution and as well as through underground shoots. Common milkweed spread readily and may need to be controlled. Common milkweed is particularly good for wetland rehabilitation and as a component in wildlife seed mixtures.

2.     Showy MilkweedThe fluffy seeds of the Showy Milkweed plant.

Similar to the Common Milkweed, this hardy perennial is a favorite of butterflies.  This species has traditionally provided food, medicine and fiber to indigenous peoples. The clusters of star-shaped flowers will range from dark-rose to white. The plant has tall woody stems with milky sap and with alternate, oval leaves that are velvety underneath. Showy Milkweed grows 24” – 36” tall and like areas with full sun. They bloom from May through July and will germinate between 65° and 85° F.

These plants grow well in a variety of locations from prairies and open woodlands to roadsides.  The seeds are very easy to grow and do well when planted in the fall or when cold-treated for three months prior to planting.  Showy Milkweed will spread through seed distribution and underground shoots

3.     Butterfly MilkweedClose-up photo of the blossoms of the Butterflyweed.

Also known as Butterflyweed, this hardy perennial. Unlike their cousins, this species lacks the milky sap that gives milkweed their namesake. The clusters of flowers will range from dark orange to white on tall woody stems with smooth shiny leaves that are velvety underneath.  The blooms begin in May and will last through July. These plants will grow between 12”-24” and perform well in a variety of locations; from prairies and open woodlands to roadsides.

Butterfly Milkweed is only pollinated by large insects. This trait is common among fall wildflowers, many of which depend on specific pollinators to survive. Butterfly Milkweed pollen is contained in a heavy, sticky structure called pollinium. Since these pollinium structures are so large and sticky, only larger insect pollinators can fly with them. There are several nectaries per flower and multiple flowers per bloom, which makes these flowers great pollen and nectar resources

The seeds will grow well when planted in the fall or when cold-treated for three months prior to planting in the Spring. Butterfly Milkweed will spread through seed distribution and underground shoots.

4.     Swamp MilkweedThe pink blossoms of the Swamp Milkweed with a visiting wasp.

 

The Swamp Milkweed is widely distributed across the U.S. and Canada; from Quebec and Maine south to Florida and Texas and west to Nevada and Idaho. This species prefers neutral to slightly acidic soil, although it will tolerate a pH up to 8.0. It has high moisture requirements, and it is usually found in wet habitats such as meadows, riverbanks, pond shores, stream banks, wet woods, swamps, and marshes, although it will also grow in drier areas such as prairies, fields, and roadsides. Swamp milkweed needs full sun or partial shade to flourish.

The plant grows into a two=foot tall perennial with fragrant, terminal blossoms made up of tiny rosy-purple blossoms.  This milkweed prefers average to very moist soils, will tolerate heavy clay soils and is easy to start from seed and deer resistant.  Like most milkweed, Swamp Milkweed seeds are easy to grow and do well when planted in the fall or when cold-treated for three months prior to planting.  Swamp Milkweed will spread through seed distribution and underground shoots.

Like the Common Milkweed, Swamp Milkweed is great for wetland rehabilitation and as a component in wildlife seed mixtures.

 

5.     Bloodflower MilkweedThe varigated orange and yellow blossoms of the Bloodflower Milkweed.

Bloodflower Milkweed, also known as Tropical Milkweed, is winter hardy in zones 9-11 and is easily grown from seed each year as an annual.  It is great for attracting hummingbirds, butterflies and a wide variety of pollinators.  Showy red-orange flowers with yellow hoods in rounded clusters grow on upright stems with medium-green, glossy, pointed leaves.  Attractive foliage and flowers for beds, borders, cottage gardens, meadows and butterfly gardens. It is also a good cut flower. Dried seed pods are attractive in arrangements.  Monarch Butterflies lay their eggs on the leaves and the larvae feed on the plants. Plant in rich, well-drained soil.  These have a longer blooming period than most other milkweeds, ranging from June through October.

This milkweed is not native to North America and can potentially be invasive in warmer climates. If you’re one of our Southern friends, monitor your plantings and keep out of wild lands and ranches and cut the foliage to the ground in the winter to avoid luring Monarchs away from their migratory paths.

*Note that all milkweed contains cardiac glycosides, chemicals that are toxic when eaten. These chemicals, in turn, make the Monarch Butterflies toxic to any would-be predators. Avoid letting livestock and small children eat milkweed and wash any skin that comes in contact with the sap to avoid irritation.

Learn more about the Monarch Butterfly Migration by checking out this Blog post!

Monarch graphic.

 

 

 

 

 

June Happenings in the Honeybee Hive

Watching Bees at Work

By Engrid Winslow

Honeybee on white rose.

This is the time of year when sources of honey and pollen are abundant and you can see the bees busily working in your flowerbeds.

It’s fun just to stand to the side and watch a beehive at this time of year as the bees fly in with full pollen bags and others leave to forage. The bees are not very defensive at this time of year but after the solstice, they start being more protective of honey stores. It’s an easy time for the colony and the beekeeper to enjoy the break from worrying about the colony having enough to eat. Inspections still must continue for the honeybee health,  to be sure that everything is going well with the colony.

The first thing the beekeeper checks for when opening to the colony is the presence of eggs, larvae, newly born bees (these are called nurse bees and their first task is to foster newly hatching bees), stores of pollen and honey and room for the Queen to lay more eggs. If there is no room there are several options, including splitting the hive and leaving the Queen in one hive while allowing the new colony to raise another queen or installing a new queen. Another option is to shift frames around a bit so that there are some empty frames closer to the brood nest. The beekeeper also checks the “pattern”, or density of the capped brood. A good queen will lay in a dense pattern with very few empty cells. “Spotty brood” could indicate a problem varying from a young queen trying to get the hang of brood laying to an older queen in decline.

A photo of a beekeeper examining the hive.Another important task is to try and locate the queen. This can be tricky in large colonies of two deep boxes because the queen likes to run away and hide from the light into a deeper part of the colony. She can also be difficult to locate on a frame filled with hundreds of worker bees and drones. Here is a photoPhoto of a finger pointing at the queenbee among all the other bees.

 

Honey Source Wildflower Mix

Our 5 Most Popular Pollinator Seed Mixes

 

Honey Bee on yellow blossom.

Save the Pollinators

Pollinators are the magic ingredient that makes our natural world work. They fuel lifecycles of entire ecosystems and are found everywhere flowering plants are. Humans are also incredibly dependent on pollinators. Pollinators come in all shapes and sizes. Honeybees, native bees, bumblebees, butterflies, birds, bats, and other wild critters are all incredibly important pollinators!

Unfortunately, we are losing our pollinators at an alarming rate. Insect pollinators are being hit especially hard. Habitat loss, exposure to pesticides, lack of food, and diseases are all leading factors in the decline of these species. We should all be concerned. One-third of our food, from coffee to strawberries, are dependent on pollinators to produce. We need these animals just as much as they need us.

We take our favorite wildflower seeds and blend them into pollinator seed mixes specially formulated to help create habitat and forage for the pollinators in your backyard. We make sure to use fresh, high quality, open-pollinated, GMO-free seeds because you deserve to have a successful, healthy, and fun planting experience. Our mixes are all seed with none of the fillers that you might find in other mixes because we believe you should get what you’re paying for.

Click here if you have any questions about how to select your site, plant, or care for our wildflower mixes!

Here are our 5 most popular pollinator seed mixes:

 

1.     Monarch Rescue Mix

Monarch butterfly on pink blossom.

Monarch Butterflies are some of the most wonderful and strange animals on Earth. Every year, they migrate between the high mountains of Mexico through most of North America. This migration takes four separate generations of butterflies to complete and covers a massive amount of territory. To complete this migration, the Monarchs need plenty of forage and nesting sites along the way.

However, habitat and forage loss has been devastating for the Monarch Butterfly. Milkweed plants are the only plants that Monarch Butterflies will lay their eggs on. These plants have been wiped out of large portions of the United States due to concerns about allergies and their designation as a “weed”. Habitat loss and pesticide use have also reduced the amount of good forage for Monarchs, weakening them too much to complete their journey.

This is why we created our Monarch Rescue Wildflower Mix. This mix of Milkweeds and wildflowers is a Monarch Butterfly booster shot. This mix is full of nutrition and habitat for the butterflies passing through your area. Make your garden a Monarch paradise with this mix.

Find it here.

2.     Bee Rescue Mix

Honey bees on purple lavender blossoms.

Bees have had a rough time of late. The incredible loss of honey bees in recent years has been well documented and reported on. However, the crisis is much deeper than just honey bees. North America has over 4,000 species of native bees. Most native bees are solitary and are extremely effective pollinators. However, these little bees are little understood and are in even more danger than honey bees because they don’t have beekeepers watching out for them!

This colorful combination of wildflowers will provide nectar and pollen for full season support of native and introduced bee species.  Our “Bee Rescue” Wildflower mix has been designed to include the absolute best species to support the health and vitality for a wide range of native pollinators as well and the honey bee. This is one of our best selling pollinator seed mixes! These are the flowers that attract the most pollinators and will do well over the most growing zones.

Get our Bee Rescue Wildflower Mix here!

3.     Bumblebee Bonanza Mix

A pollen covered bumblebee on a pink blossom.

Bumblebee Bonanza Mix is a colorful mix that includes specially selected species of nectar and pollen-rich, annual and perennial flowers that are known to attract bumblebees and other pollinators and will provide quality forage from early spring until late fall.

This mixture of annuals and perennials is designed to provide early, mid and late season blooms to support the life cycle of the bumblebee as well as other pollinators. These flower species will do well in a variety of growing conditions and are recommended for a maintained, home-garden planting or commercial landscape.  The best time for planting this mix is in the early spring, early summer and late fall.

Buy the Bumblebee Bonanza Mix Here!

4.     Hummingbird Mix

Green hummingbird in flight.

This mix has been created with the vibrantly colored, nectar-rich species that hummingbirds love.  Consisting of mostly perennials, this mix will continue to provide support to hummingbirds and other important pollinators.  A few annuals are included to provide color the first year while the perennials become established and will bloom the second year.

Get it here and start enjoying your hummingbird garden!

 

5.     Honey Source Mix

Honey bees on a honeycomb.

A long blooming mix of beautiful, nectar and pollen-rich annuals and perennials put together just for our Honey Bee friends.  Plant this mix to provide vital nutrition for the European Honey Bees.  These hard-working pollinators are necessary for our agricultural production and are a major contributor to our food supply.  Lack of native nectar and pollen sources between crop rotations can cause stress and starvation that contribute to colony collapse.

Our Honey Source Wildflower Mix can be found here!

One Last Thing

At BBB Seed, we are deeply committed to providing the highest quality grass, wildflower, and grass seeds to empower our customers to get out and grow! This list of our 5 most popular pollinator seed mixes is intended to be a useful resource for you to see what products our customers and we are enjoying right now!

We also are incredibly concerned about providing sustainable and environmentally conscious products to you. We source seeds that are non-genetically engineered, tested, and grown sustainably. We hope these products will help you enjoy nature and learn about this wonderful world in the garden. We strongly encourage you to visit our Pollinator Action Page or The Bee Conservancy to learn about the pollinators that make our natural world possible and learn more about what you can do to help them. Thank you!

Grow. Enjoy. Share…the beauty and the bounty!

 

Honey Do’s and Don’ts

Tips for Purchasing Honey

By Engrid WinslowHoney Source Wildflower Mix. Purchasing Honey

In order to produce 1 pound of honey, bees will visit approximately 2 million flowers. An average hive of bees must fly 55,000 miles to produce a pound of honey. One bee colony can produce 40 to 100 pounds of honey per year. The average foraging bee makes about 1/12 teaspoon of honey in its lifetime.

When you consider these facts, it is truly a miracle that honey is so well-known and widely used. The very first origins of keeping bees and honey is not known but there are drawings from early Egypt depicting the practice. Honey was called “The Tears of Re” (Re, also referred to as Ra, was the Egyptian Sun God).

Honey bee colonies tended by a beekeeper often produce more honey than they need to survive during the cold winter months when there are no blooms. A responsible beekeeper harvests only the extra which is produced in a “honey super”. These are smaller boxes on top of the two brood boxes separated from the hive by a “Queen Excluder”. No brood is raised there and the bees fill it up with excess honey.

Buyer beware if you are purchasing honey in large jugs at a steeply discounted price. Imported honey is often only a small percentage of honey and a large portion of it is actually sugar syrup. Buy from a local beekeeper, if at all possible. If you don’t know one, check out Farmer’s Markets, fruit stands, small locally owned grocery stores or cheese shops. You can also look for a local beekeepers association and contact them.

Always purchase unrefined honey which has not been heated over 100 degrees and is filtered through a fine-mesh strainer. All honey will crystallize over time, some much sooner than others. How you treat the crystalized honey is up to you, but to retain the beneficial properties, warming the container in hot water is the best way to go. Creamed honey is honey that has been pre-crystalized using a starter with controlled, very-fine crystals. Most beekeepers who produce honey to sell are familiar with how to produce creamed honey.

Honey has been used for centuries as a throat-soother for coughs and colds and to treat topical injuries, particularly burns and scrapes. It has also been used to treat animals suffering from “road rash” and in patients with foot problems caused by diabetes or those who suffer from ulcers. There is also strong evidence that honey taken at bedtime regulates blood sugar and causes more restful sleep.

Many believe (yours truly included), although there is no medical evidence, that a spoonful of unrefined honey daily will cure, or at least minimize seasonal allergy symptoms. The more local the honey is, the better because the honey contains small amounts of pollen from your particular area. Honey from Boston may not be as beneficial for someone who lives in Los Angeles.

Bees generally forage in a 2-mile radius but may go up to 5 miles to reach pollen and nectar sources. You can help your local honeybee population by not using pesticides and by planting flowers for pollinators such as our Honey Source or Bee Rescue mixes.

Most honey produced by a local beekeeper will be wildflower honey, meaning a mixture of whatever is in bloom.  Varietal honeys such as orange blossom or lavender require that many acres of those crops must be grown near the beehives and the honey supers pulled off the hives when the bloom season is over.

It is a lot of fun to try purchasing honey of varietal kinds of honey and notice their smells and flavors. The honey from my hives tastes different every year but is always delicious. Last year I noticed an apple flavor in it which makes sense because I live in an area with many apple and crabapples nearby.

If you want to know more about honey, check out these past blog posts: www.bbbseed.com/april-happenings-in-the-honeybee-hive/, www.bbbseed.com/whats-happening-in-the-honeybee-hive-as-winter-starts-to-close-in, www.bbbseed.com/20532-2/, and www.bbbseed.com/product/honey-source-mix/

 

 

Why Are Native Plants Important?

Wildflower Seeds

by Engrid WinslowNative Purple Coneflower seed packet.

Honey bees are not native to the United States but were imported in the 1600s by colonists from Europe. Already here when honey bees arrived were 50 species of bumblebees and over 4,400 species of native bees. Bumblebees are especially efficient at buzz pollination. (Check out this blog for more information on bumblebees: www.bbbseed.com/its-bumblebee-bonanza-time). Native bees specialize in pollinating native species of plants – including food – while honey bees are best described as generalists. . Native bees do not have pollen bags on their legs but are often covered with a lot of bushy hairs on their bodies which gather and distribute pollen in the most excellent way. Also, native bees (bumblebees are the exception) live only about 6 weeks and their lives coincide with the bloom time of certain plants that they are specialists in pollinating. They are extremely docile and non-aggressive with some of them having a stinger that doesn’t even penetrate the skin.  Their sting also contains a different type of toxin which will not cause anaphylaxis in people who are allergic to honey bee stings.

The label for the Colorado Tansy Aster seed packet. Native plants.

Alkali bees are essential for pollinating alfalfa. Alfalfa is a member of the pea family and the flowers have a lower lip which will snap closed and whack honeybees on the butt but Alkali bees have figured out how to get in and out of the flowers quickly and efficiently. Sunflower bees hatch late in the season to coincide with the bloom of sunflowers as do Long Horned bees which love asters as well as sunflowers. Mason bees are also commonly referred to as ‘orchard bees’ because they are so good at pollinating apples and stone fruits such as cherries. Sunflower bees hatch late in the season to coincide with the bloom of sunflowers as do Long Horned bees which love asters as well as sunflowers.  The tiny Mining bees which nest in bare spots in lawns are the first to wake up and pollinate maples and willows which bloom in spring.

 

Wild Sunflower. Native plants

 

How do you know if a plant is a native? Well, if it’s a color (like bluish hybrid tea roses) or shape (lots of petals on the rose) that is unusual it is most likely a hybrid. Look for old-thyme classics like native roses (rosa woodsii or rosa glauca https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rosa_woodsii) to support the natives in your garden.

Also remember to plant such natives as liatris, asters, sunflowers, penstemons, rabbitbrush and native bee plant. Anything with tubular flowers is always a good choice for the native bees and many of them bloom in should seasons when nothing else is available.

 

Liatris tag with photo of tall spikes of pink flowers. Native plants

April Happenings in the Honeybee Hive

Tips for Pollinators

By Engrid Winslow

Image of a queen bee in a hive.

Image by Matthew Greger from Pixabay

 

Beginning in March, as the days lengthen and temperatures begin to warm (at least some of the time!) the bees are starting to raise brood again. April means the delivery of packages and nucs and towards the end of the month established overwintered honeybee hive begins to think of swarming. This is a very busy time for beekeepers and bees. With the vagaries of winter, some early pollen sources may not materialize and all good stewards of the bees will put sugar water and pollen patties in their hives. Pollen is critical in raising healthy brood and March is the time when the colonies are running out of the nectar and pollen they stored in the fall for surviving all winter. Losing a honeybee hive in the early spring can be caused by starvation although all factors such as mite loads, insecticidal poisoning and other issues should also be considered and evaluated.

As spring creeps ever closer, the most abundant sources of pollen and nectar are available during this time. Brood rearing continues in earnest and beekeepers must watch carefully for signs of swarming. Many beekeepers are eager to add to their hives by capturing swarms and add their names to lists with local and state beekeepers associations. (The swarm hotline number in Colorado if you spot a swarm is 1-844-spy- bees, 1-844-779-2337). Classic signs of swarming include large numbers of bees “bearding” or gathering on the outside of the hive. It’s getting crowded in the hive.

A cell holding the larva of a queen bee. Honeybee hive in winter.

Image by Franz Schmid from Pixabay

Inside a honeybee hive that is beginning to swarm a new Queen is being raised. Queen larvae form in a peanut-shaped cell that is much larger than the cell used to raise worker bees and drones.  They are usually on the bottom or sticking off the side of a frame. Once the Queen cells form, the bees are already committed to swarming and half of the colony (mostly newly hatched workers who can help the most with producing wax for the honeycomb at the new location) will leave with the older Queen. The new queen is left behind but must leave the hive to fly into the “drone zone” for mating, return to the hive and begin laying eggs. Beekeepers can prevent swarming by “splitting” their hives. This involves removing a few frames with capped brood and plenty of “nurse bees” to take care of the newly hatched brood into a new hive body. Some of the honey stores and pollen should also be placed in the new hive. Some beekeepers move a capped queen cell with a larva inside to the new hive and others purchase a mated queen from a beekeeper in the queen-rearing business.

For more information about swarming check out these past blogs: www.bbbseed.com/honey-bee-swarms/ and www.bbbseed.com/19613-2/.