Top 10 Plants for Honey Bees: Best Nectar and Pollen Plants for a Full-Season Bee Garden

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Honey bee gathering nectar from pale purple rosemary flowers from one of the top 10 plants for honey bees

The top 10 plants for honey bees are willow, clover, borage, bee balm, anise hyssop, lavender, coneflower, sunflower, goldenrod, and aster. These plants provide honey bees with a useful mix of nectar and pollen across spring, summer, and fall. This matters because honey bees need nectar for energy and honey production, and pollen to support brood development and colony strength.

The best plants for honey bees aren’t always the showiest flowers. They’re the ones that provide a dependable source of nectar and pollen throughout the entire growing season, helping colonies thrive from spring through fall.

To provide honey bees with reliable forage throughout the growing season, BBB Seed’s Honey Source Mix is a great place to start.

Quick Answer: The Top 10 Plants for Honey Bees

PlantBloom SeasonWhy Honey Bees Like ItBest Use
WillowEarly springEarly pollen and nectar sourceLarge landscapes, wet areas, habitat plantings
CloverSpring to fallNectar, pollen, lawn, and field adaptabilityLawns, fields, cover crops, larger plantings
BorageSummerLong bloom period and heavy bee activityGardens, herb beds, pollinator patches
Bee balmSummerNectar-rich flowers that attract many pollinatorsLandscapes, perennial beds, native gardens
Anise hyssopSummerAbundant flowers and strong bee appealSunny beds, low-water plantings, mass plantings
LavenderSummerNectar source, fragrance, structureDry, sunny landscapes and garden borders
ConeflowerSummer to fallOpen centers with accessible pollen and nectarPerennial beds, prairie gardens, retail landscapes
SunflowerSummer to fallLarge, accessible flower headsGardens, field edges, educational plantings
GoldenrodLate summer to fallLate-season nectar and pollenMeadows, naturalized areas, prairie plantings
AsterLate summer to fallFall forage when other blooms fadeNative gardens, borders, habitat plantings

For a simple nationwide list, these are the plants to plant for honey bees. Then adjust by region, soil, water needs, sun exposure, available space, and project size.

What Makes a Plant Good for Honey Bees?

Several factors to consider when choosing plants for honey bees include:

  1. Quality nectar and pollen resources. Nectar gives honey bees carbohydrates for energy and honey production. Pollen provides protein, fats, and nutrients that support brood development and colony strength.
  2. Bloom time matters because colonies need food in spring, summer, and fall.
  3. Flower structure matters because bees need access to the nectar and pollen.
  4. Plant density matters because bees forage more efficiently from grouped plantings.
  5. Safe sourcing matters because pollinator plants should not expose bees to harmful pesticide residues.

The Top 10 Plants for Honey Bees

1. Willow

Willow catkins covered in yellow pollen in early spring

Willow is one of the first dependable food sources of the year, supplying both nectar and pollen just when colonies are waking up, expanding, and preparing for the busy months ahead.

Willows are especially useful in larger landscapes, naturalized areas, wet sites, drainage zones, restoration projects, and habitat plantings. They are not the right fit for every small yard because many willow species need space and moisture, but where they fit, they can be extremely valuable.

Best for: beekeepers, landowners, restoration projects, larger landscapes, habitat corridors
Planting note: Choose a willow species suited to your region, soil moisture, and available space.

2. Clover

White Dutch clover blossoms blooming in green turf

Clover is one of the most practical plants for honey bees because it works in more places than many ornamental flowers. It can fit into lawns, fields, cover crop systems, orchard alleys, pasture edges, and larger-scale plantings. White Dutch Clover is one practical option for lawns, ground cover, erosion control, and bee-friendly plantings.

For beekeepers and wholesale buyers, clover is especially useful because it is scalable. You are not limited to a small flower bed. Clover can support larger forage areas.

A homeowner might add clover to a bee lawn. A beekeeper might think about nearby fields. A landscaper might use it in a lower-input lawn strategy. A wholesale buyer might look at it as part of a broader pollinator program.

Best for: bee lawns, cover crops, orchards, fields, large landscapes
Planting note: Choose the right clover for the site, traffic level, and local growing conditions.

3. Borage

Blue star-shaped borage flower with a dark center

Borage is one of my favorite summer plants for honey bees. Bees work it heavily, and when conditions are right, it keeps producing flowers for a long period.

Borage is especially useful in herb gardens, vegetable gardens, pollinator strips, and mixed annual plantings. It is easy to grow and brings a lot of bee activity into a sunny planting. For more herb garden ideas, BBB Seed’s guide to herbs for the bees is a helpful next read.

Best for: gardeners, beekeepers, herb beds, annual pollinator patches
Planting note: Borage can reseed, so place it where that is acceptable.

4. Bee Balm

Pale pink bee balm, also called Monarda, in summer bloom

Bee balm, also called Monarda, is an excellent summer-blooming choice for honey bees and other pollinators.

Bee balm works well in perennial beds, native gardens, cottage gardens, meadow edges, and pollinator landscapes. It is especially useful when planted in groups.

I like bee balm because it serves multiple audiences. Gardeners enjoy the color. Landscapers can use it as a showy perennial. Beekeepers benefit from another summer forage source that also attracts native bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.

Best for: perennial beds, native gardens, pollinator landscapes, retail plant programs
Planting note: Give bee balm good airflow and match the variety to your local climate, especially in humid regions where powdery mildew can be an issue.

5. Anise Hyssop

Bee foraging on a purple anise hyssop flower spike

Anise hyssop is one of the best bee plants for honey-focused gardens because it produces abundant nectar-rich flowers and draws steady bee activity in summer. It also has a tidy enough form for designed landscapes, which makes it useful for both residential and commercial plantings.

I have seen anise hyssop perform well along the Colorado Front Range, especially in sunny, lower-water plantings around places like Gunbarrel, Louisville, and Lafayette. In other regions, the exact species or variety may change, but the idea stays the same: use durable plants with abundant flowers that offer nectar and pollen.

Best for: sunny perennial beds, Western gardens, water-wise plantings, mass plantings
Planting note: Plant in groups for a stronger visual impact and easier bee foraging.

6. Lavender

Lavender flower spikes blooming in a sunny, well-drained garden

Lavender is another strong option where the climate supports it. It is not the right answer for every site, especially humid areas or poorly drained soils, but when lavender is planted in the right place, bees usually find it quickly.

For landscapers, lavender can add structure, fragrance, and a clean visual line. For beekeepers, it adds another nectar source. For gardeners, it is easy to grow and easy to love.

Lavender is especially useful in dry, sunny regions, Western gardens, Mediterranean-style landscapes, and borders. It can struggle in heavy clay, wet winter soils, and humid climates, so site selection matters.

Best for: dry sunny borders, Western landscapes, low-water gardens, mass plantings
Planting note: Prioritize full sun, good drainage, and varieties suited to your winter hardiness zone.

7. Coneflower

Yellow, dark-centered coneflower blooms in a perennial bed

Coneflower is a simple and recognizable honey bee plant. It works well in perennial gardens, prairie-style plantings, public landscapes, and retail plant programs.

The key is to choose flower forms bees can actually use. I prefer single, open flower forms over heavily doubled ornamental varieties because bees need access to the flower’s center.

Coneflowers also pair well with other plants for honey bees, including bee balm, anise hyssop, black-eyed Susan, mountain mint, blazing star, goldenrod, and asters.

Best for: gardeners, landscapers, prairie plantings, perennial beds
Planting note: Choose open-centered varieties and avoid highly doubled forms if bee value is the priority.

8. Sunflower

Open sunflower head with accessible pollen and nectar for bees

Sunflowers are simple, recognizable, and useful. They can provide pollen and nectar, and they are easily recognizable to customers, crews, and homeowners. They also work in many planting styles, from backyard gardens to field edges.

For honey bees, the best sunflowers are usually open, pollen-bearing types. Some ornamental or pollenless cut-flower varieties are bred for vase life and cleanliness, not bee forage. If your goal is to support honey bees, choose varieties that provide accessible pollen and nectar.

Sunflowers are also useful because they help connect people to the planting. Kids recognize them. Customers recognize them. Gardeners enjoy them. That makes them among the easiest plants for honey bees to plant when education and visibility matter.

Best for: gardens, farms, educational landscapes, field edges, pollinator strips
Planting note: Choose pollen-bearing varieties and plant enough for bees to forage efficiently.

9. Goldenrod

Golden goldenrod plumes blooming in late summer

Goldenrod is one of the most important late-season plants for honey bees. Late summer and fall are when many bee gardens fail, and goldenrod helps fill that gap.

If you want the best nectar-producing plants for honey bees, do not ignore the end of the season. Honey bee colonies still need forage as they prepare for winter, and late-blooming plants can make a meaningful difference in the landscape.

In late summer, here in Boulder County, I pay close attention to what is still blooming. Goldenrod is one of the plants I like to see because it extends the forage window when many earlier flowers are finished.

Best for: late-season forage, meadows, native gardens, prairie plantings, naturalized landscapes
Planting note: Choose regionally appropriate goldenrod species, especially for designed landscapes where height and spread matter.

10. Aster

Purple aster flowers blooming in fall

Asters are excellent late-season bee plants because they bloom when many gardens are running out of flowers. They pair naturally with goldenrod, and together they can keep a pollinator planting active into fall.

Asters are especially valuable in Midwest and Western plantings where late-season bloom matters. They work in native gardens, prairie-style landscapes, meadow edges, perennial borders, and restoration projects.

Best for: fall forage, prairie plantings, native gardens, perennial borders
Planting note: Choose native or regionally adapted asters when possible.

Bloom Sequence Matters More Than One Big Flush of Flowers

Mixed pollinator garden bed with lavender, yellow, and pink blooms

A honey bee garden can look great in June and still fail bees later in the season. I have seen this happen around Boulder, including gardens near Table Mesa and North Boulder that look full early in summer but have very little bloom by July or August.

The stronger approach is to build a bloom sequence:

  1. Early bloomers for spring buildup.
  2. Summer workhorses for peak activity.
  3. Late-season nectar and pollen plants for fall preparation.

Colorado State University Extension recommends choosing plants with bloom times from early spring to late fall so flowers are available throughout the pollinator activity season.

That same principle applies across the U.S. Whether you are planting in Colorado, the Midwest, the Northeast, the South, or the West Coast, the goal is not just to choose attractive flowers. The goal is to keep useful forage available from early spring through fall.

Best Honey Bee Plants by Bloom Season

A strong honey bee planting is not just a top 10 list. It is a sequence. Use the top 10 plants as your foundation, then add regional plants that fill any seasonal gaps.

SeasonGoalPlant Examples
Early springHelp colonies build up after winterWillow, fruit trees, clover, serviceberry, penstemon
SummerSupport peak foraging and nectar flowBorage, bee balm, anise hyssop, lavender, coneflower, sunflower, mountain mint, blazing star
Late summer and fallExtend forage before winterGoldenrod, aster, sedum, late salvia, native sunflowers, Joe Pye weed where appropriate

USDA recommends planting a continuous food supply with different species blooming across spring, summer, and fall.

Late summer and fall are when many plantings fall short. Goldenrod and aster are my top recommendations here, but sedum, late salvia, mountain mint, and regionally appropriate native perennials can also help extend forage. For more ideas, see BBB Seed’s guide to fall-blooming plants for pollinators.

Regional Planting Notes for the Midwest and Western U.S.

Map of the United States highlighting the Midwest and Western regions

The best plants for honey bees vary by region, but the strategy stays the same: choose nectar and pollen plants that bloom across the full season and fit the site. For larger projects, regional wildflower mixes can help match seed choices to the area where they will actually be planted.

RegionStrong ChoicesNotes
MidwestClover, coneflower, sunflower, goldenrod, aster, blazing star, mountain mint, prairie clover, milkweed, bee balmPrairie-style and meadow-style plantings can provide long bloom windows and strong pollinator value.
Western U.S.Anise hyssop, lavender where drainage is good, penstemon, salvia, goldenrod, aster, sunflower, rabbitbrush, native milkweed, blanket flowerWater use, drainage, sun exposure, and climate adaptation matter.
NationwideWillow, clover, borage, bee balm, coneflower, sunflower, goldenrod, aster, fruit trees, regionally adapted native plantsChoose plants that grow well enough in your region to bloom reliably.

In my experience along the Colorado Front Range, the best results come from matching the plant to the actual site. A sunny, lower-water planting near Lafayette or Louisville needs different choices than a shaded, irrigated garden bed in another region.

Before ordering or planting, check:

  • USDA hardiness zone
  • Sun exposure
  • Soil drainage
  • Water availability
  • Humidity
  • Heat tolerance
  • Mature size
  • Bloom season
  • Whether the plant is invasive in your region
  • Whether it was grown with pollinator-safe practices

Lacy phacelia is another useful bee plant to consider, where it fits the site. BBB Seed carries Lacy Phacelia, and its article About Lacy Phacelia offers more detail on this pollinator-friendly plant.

Tips for Landscapers, Beekeepers, Gardeners, and Wholesale Buyers

Colorful beehive boxes set in a wildflower meadow

Different buyers may use the same honey bee plants in different ways. A gardener may want a small pollinator bed. A beekeeper may be thinking about forage near hives. A landscaper may need a reliable plant palette. A wholesale buyer may need seed or plant material that works across larger projects.

Plant in Groups So Bees Can Forage Efficiently

Do not scatter one of everything across a property and expect the same impact as a strong mass planting. Bees forage more efficiently when they can move through a cluster of the same plant. The U.S. Forest Service also recommends planting in clumps rather than isolated single plants.

For landscapers, this also looks better. For beekeepers, it can improve forage efficiency. For wholesale buyers, it helps you think in trays, flats, and project quantities instead of one-off plant choices.

Choose Single, Open Flowers Over Heavily Doubled Blooms

One of the biggest mistakes I see in pollinator planting is choosing only for color instead of food value.

Single, open flowers usually give bees better access to pollen and nectar. Heavily doubled blooms may look dramatic, but they are often less useful to bees. This matters when selecting coneflowers, sunflowers, roses, zinnias, dahlias, and other ornamentals.

The prettiest catalog photo is not always the best bee plant.

Think Beyond the Backyard

Honey bees foraging on white clover growing in a bee lawn

For gardeners, a pollinator bed is a great start. For beekeepers, landscapers, and larger buyers, the bigger opportunity may be across the whole property or community.

Think about:

  • Bee lawns
  • Clover areas
  • Orchard edges
  • Field borders
  • Roadsides
  • Drainage areas
  • Meadows
  • Farm lanes
  • Public landscapes
  • Commercial properties

Honey bee forage does not have to come from one perfect garden. It can come from many practical plantings across a property or community.

Landscapers, beekeepers, and large-scale buyers can explore BBB Seed’s pollinator mixes or apply for a wholesale account for wildflower seeds, native grasses, regional mixes, and pollinator mixes.

Ask About Systemic Insecticides Before Buying Bee-Friendly Plants

Close-up of mixed sunflower seed

A plant marketed as “bee-friendly” is not truly bee-friendly if the pollen or nectar may carry harmful residues. This is especially important for landscapers and wholesale buyers because they are often planting on a larger scale.

Xerces offers guidance on choosing bee-safe nursery plants, including why buyers should ask about neonicotinoids and similar systemic insecticides.

Questions to ask before buying:

  • Were these plants grown with neonicotinoids or other systemic insecticides?
  • What pest management practices were used?
  • Are pollinator-safe production practices available?
  • Are organic plants or seeds available?
  • Can you provide untreated or pollinator-conscious options for wholesale orders?

Safe sourcing should be part of the planting plan, not an afterthought.

Native and Regional Alternatives Worth Considering

Honey bees feeding on orange butterfly weed blossoms

The top 10 plants for honey bees are a strong starting point, but you should adjust the list with native and regionally adapted plants wherever possible. Xerces provides regional native plant lists to help gardeners and landscapers choose pollinator-friendly plants.

Depending on your region, consider adding or substituting:

  • Milkweed
  • Mountain mint
  • Penstemon
  • Blazing star
  • Salvia
  • Prairie clover
  • Serviceberry
  • Fruit trees
  • Sedum
  • Yarrow
  • Blanket flower
  • Native sunflowers
  • Rabbitbrush in parts of the West
  • Joe Pye weed, where suitable
  • Lacy phacelia, where appropriate

Native plants are often a strong choice because they are adapted to local conditions and support broader pollinator ecosystems. For honey bees specifically, I like to use native plants and proven bee forage plants together. Honey bees are generalist foragers, so the best planting is usually diverse, practical, and regionally appropriate.

For a deeper related read, BBB Seed also has a guide to the best plants for honey bees.

FAQs About Plants for Honey Bees

Honey bees covering honeycomb inside a hive

What is the best plant for honey bees?

There is no single best plant for every region, but clover is one of the most practical choices because it can work in lawns, fields, cover crops, and larger landscapes. For early spring, willow is excellent where it fits the site. For summer, borage, bee balm, anise hyssop, lavender, coneflower, and sunflower are strong choices. For fall, goldenrod and aster are hard to beat.

What plants produce the most nectar for honey bees?

Some of the best nectar-producing plants for honey bees include clover, borage, lavender, anise hyssop, goldenrod, aster, bee balm, and certain flowering trees. Nectar production varies by species, variety, region, weather, soil, and plant health, so it is better to plant a sequence of nectar plants than rely on one option.

Is clover good for honey bees?

Yes. Clover is one of the best plants for honey bees because it provides nectar and pollen and can be used in lawns, fields, and larger landscapes. White clover is especially practical because it fits low-growing bee lawns and is widely recognized as a honey bee forage plant.

Is lavender good for honey bees?

Yes, lavender can be very good for honey bees when planted in the right climate and soil. It performs best in full sun with excellent drainage. It is an excellent choice for dry, sunny landscapes, especially in parts of the West, but it may struggle in humid or poorly drained locations.

Are sunflowers good for honey bees?

Yes, sunflowers can be good for honey bees, especially open, pollen-bearing varieties. Avoid pollenless cut-flower varieties if your main goal is bee forage. For pollinator value, choose sunflowers with accessible centers and plant enough for bees to forage efficiently.

What fall-blooming plants should I plant for honey bees?

For fall, plant goldenrod, asters, sedum, late-blooming salvia, native sunflowers, long-blooming annuals, and regionally appropriate late-season perennials. Goldenrod and asters are two of my favorite late-season recommendations because they help extend forage when colonies are preparing for winter.

What flowers should I avoid in a honey bee garden?

Avoid relying heavily on flowers that are bred only for appearance, especially heavily doubled flowers where bees cannot easily access nectar or pollen. Also, avoid plants treated with systemic insecticides or plants that are invasive in your region.

Should I choose native plants for honey bees?

Yes, native plants are often a smart choice, especially when they are matched to your region and site conditions. However, the best honey bee planting can include a mix of native plants, herbs, annuals, perennials, shrubs, and trees. The goal is full-season nectar and pollen from plants that grow well where you are planting.

Final Takeaway: Build a Bee Planting That Feeds Colonies All Season

Honey bee collecting pollen on a bright yellow flower

If I had to give a clear nationwide answer, my top 10 plants for honey bees are willow, clover, borage, bee balm, anise hyssop, lavender, coneflower, sunflower, goldenrod, and aster.

But the real strategy is bigger than the list. Choose early bloomers, summer workhorses, and late-season nectar plants. Plant in groups. Favor open flowers over heavily doubled blooms. Match the plant to your region. Ask about pesticide practices before buying. And remember that the best plants for honey bees are the ones that provide nectar and pollen when honey bees need them most.

Best Flowers for Honey Bees: What to Plant for Nectar and Pollen All Season

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Best Flowers for Bees: What to Plant for a Pollinator-Friendly Garden

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How to Ensure Successful Vegetable Gardening

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Cool Season Planting

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Cool Season Planting

tips_seedstarting2

  1. When mid-summer brings a bounty of produce from your garden and you are enjoying the fruits of your labor, it is time to start planting again.  The prime planting time for late-season harvests is late summer.  Success with fall vegetables requires proper timing.  In the spring gardeners wait to plant outside until after the last spring frost, well, in the fall the race is against the season’s first frost.  Many of the cool season crops can withstand a few light touches of frost and even become sweeter.  Check with your local county extension service to find your area’s first expected frost date.
    Check the back of the seed packet to find the days to maturity.  Take your frost date and count backward to find the best time to start your next round of seeds.  Cooler fall growing temperatures may require an extra week or two for the plants to reach maturity.  Many of your fall crops can be harvested when young and immature, too.

Which crops to plant for the Cool Season Planting?French Breakfast Radish
Plants that do well in the early spring work for the cool fall temperatures.  These will do well right up to the frost date and even beyond.
Cabbage takes a long season to mature and many gardeners don’t even plant cabbage in the spring because it doesn’t have enough time to mature before the mid-summer’s heat stops growth.  Start these seeds mid-summer, a good 3 months before the first frost date.
Kale should be planted 85 – 90 days before the first frost.  The leaves can handle a few light touches of frost and become sweeter each time.
Carrots can be planted 80-85 days before frost.  They can be harvested when young and tender.  Even after the cold temperatures shrivel the tops, they can be dug, sweet and juicy, from the ground throughout the fall.
Broccoli has the same problem as cabbage with a long time to mature as cabbages, so planting for a fall harvest is often best.  Plant broccoli seed directly in the soil about 80-85 days before frost.
Beets can do double duty with green tops for salads and tasty roots as well.  Plant seeds about 65-70 days before frost, depending on the type you choose.
Leafy greens such as spinach and leaf lettuces, rocket, and Swiss chard all do best in the cooler temperatures of fall.  Plant seed about 50-60 days before frost depending on the type chosen.  These can be harvested when young and immature for delicious baby greens.
Radishes are always great to spice up salads.  These are fast-growing and can be planted 30-35 days before the first frost.  Pull them when young and tender.
If you have any questions at all about how to start your BBB Seed please do not hesitate to email us at info@bbbseed.com. We look forward to answering any questions you might have!
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Find your Hardiness Zone

CONTAINER GARDENING

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Growing a Garden in a Container

 

Planning ahead-container-plants
Take a moment to look at the locations where you want to place your containers.  Consider such things as sunlight (strength and time) and wind.  If you have pots with sun/heat-loving plants, arrange them to shade your pots with those plants that need less sun and heat.  Tall plants or plants that vine can be trellised to grow vertically and provide a natural barrier for tender plants.  Make sure to anchor trellises and containers with tall plants, to keep them from getting blown over.  If you plan to place your containers on a covered porch or balcony or any place that receives limited sunshine, you should select vegetables and flowers that don’t require as much.  Leafy greens, snap peas, Chinese mustards, and kale will do quite well in these conditions, but tomatoes, and peppers, probably not.
When growing your garden in containers rather than a garden plot, it is just as important to choose varieties that will be able to reach maturity in your growing season.  If you have a short growing season, check the maturity dates on the packages and plan to start some seedlings in the warmth of the indoors to get a jump on the growing season.

These varieties are not practical for container gardening due to their size or length of growing season (At the end is a list of vegetables/plants that will do well in containers.):

Watermelon and most cantaloupes (although there are some midget varieties that can do well)
Large Pumpkins and winter squash
Corn
Head cabbage (except as microgreens)
Mammoth sunflowers (except as sprouts or micro greens)
Beefsteak type tomatoes
Garlic bulbs/full sized Onions
Make sure to prepare your containers and pots properly, to give your veggies the best chance possible.  You will be surprised by how much those little seedlings will expand, and there is as much growth below the soil as there is above the soil, so don’t squeeze them into tiny containers.  Any type of vessel can be used, just keep in mind the size of the plants and the location.  Terra cotta pots are inexpensive but dry out more quickly than others, metal tends to get quite hot in the sun, and plastic is versatile and lightweight.

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Getting started-

tips_seedstarting3For Container Gardening, start your long-season varieties, indoors, in good quality starting soil or soilless mixture.  Seedlings should be kept consistently moist (not wet) and exposed to fairly strong light, sunlight, or florescent, for at least 10 – 12 hours each day as soon as sprouts appear.  This will keep them from getting leggy and looking for light.  Seedlings that are sown more closely together can show more vigor as their roots symbiotically help each other extract nutrients from the soil.  As the first true leaves appear, choose the strongest seedling starts that you will need for your containers and clip off the remaining which gives the strong ones some space to expand.  Transplant to pots and containers shortly after the first true leaves appear. When transplanting to your containers and pots, make sure to space the seedlings according to the package directions for each type of vegetable.

Here are some plants that do not like to be transplanted.  Instead, start them in individual moss starter cubes or use homemade newspaper pots or toilet paper tubes that can just be set into your containers at the appropriate spacing.
Beans                                      Squash                        Burnet
Chinese Cabbage                    Borage                        Chervil
Cucumbers                              Caraway                      Pumpkins
Melons                                    Coriander                     Dill
Root crops (except beets, turnips, and celeriac)
Make sure that your container has drainage holes in the bottom.   Place a couple of layers of newspaper in the bottom of the pot to keep soil from falling through the holes, then place a 1-inch layer of moss on top of the newspaper.  If you don’t have a source for sphagnum moss, coarse gravel will work.  Fill the container with good, rich pre-moistened, potting soil, leaving room at the top.  Pat it down firmly to fill in the spaces but do not pack hard.  Take your young transplants (holding by the leaves or root ball, not the tender stem)  or degradable seedling pots, one at a time, placing each on the top of the soil.  Spread out the roots, and sprinkle more pre-moistened soil over the roots, covering them completely.  Use enough soil to bring the level up to just under the first leaves for most seedlings.  Do not cover the crown on plants such as lettuce.  The plant’s first leaves should be at the level of the top of the container.  Pat the soil gently, firming it over the roots and young stems.
tips_seedstarting4 Water your containers when the soil feels dry in the top few inches.  Continuously wet soil suffocates the roots and encourages bacteria and fungi to grow.  Usually, we water when we have time or are home, but watering when needed instead of on a schedule is usually best.  Avoid wetting the leaves as much as possible.  Try to use tepid water and if you are using chlorinated tap water, allow it to sit overnight exposed to air to dissipate the chlorine which can damage plants and kill beneficial soil bacteria.
Fertilize with low doses of good quality organic fertilizer every 7-10 days.
Don’t be shy about removing plants that are past prime or are beginning to bolt.  Removing these will leave spaces where you can plant another round of short-season varieties and ones that prefer to mature in the cooler weather of fall.  Lettuces and other leafy greens are good for this, maybe another round of snap peas, beets or radishes, arugula, and bunching onions.  Mustards and kales and fennel love the cool days of fall
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Design – Container Gardening can be beautiful
Create groupings with your pots and experiment with variations in height, by placing some containers on concrete blocks or other empty containers turned upside down. This adds visual appeal and at the same time maximizes the space available.  Groupings also help to make the job of watering a bit easier.  Pick a particularly spectacular container plant to be the visual focus and arrange other not-so-pretty container plants around.
Make your containers a bit more decorative by planting different varieties together in one pot.  Use the spaces under taller plants to place smaller herbs and leafy greens. Some vegetables live in harmony with one another, some are actually beneficial to each other and some hate each other.  Mix colors and textures and think about including edible flowers tucked in around the edges. See the article, Flavorful Flowers.  category-color Check each variety on our website to see if your combinations will work together.  Here are some examples:
• Lettuce does well with beets, bush beans, pole beans, cabbage, carrots, cucumbers, onions, radishes, and strawberries.  You can also plant your lettuce at the base of young sunflowers for a little shade.
•Celery, dill, onions, and potatoes are great companion plants for cabbage. Planting clover with your cabbage will keep insects away and chamomile will improve the flavor. Cabbage does not like strawberries, tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, rue, grapes, or pole beans.
•Cauliflower is compatible with basil, beans, dill, garlic, hyssop, lettuce, mint, onion, rosemary, sage, and thyme. It does not like grapes and rue.
•Plant your peas with bush beans, pole beans, carrots, celery, cucumber, eggplant, parsley,  radish, spinach, strawberry, sweet pepper, tomatoes and turnips. Keep your peas away from chives,  and onions.
•Tomatoes grow well with asparagus, basil, beans, carrots, celery, chives, cucumber, garlic, head lettuce, marigold, mint, nasturtium, onion, parsley, peas, peppers and marigold. Basil will repel flies and mosquitoes from your tomato plants while also improving their growth and flavor. Beebalm, chives, and mint will improve the health and flavor of your tomatoes. Keep potatoes, fennel, dill, cabbage, and cauliflower away from your tomato plants.
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VEGETABLES/PLANTS THAT DO WELL FOR CONTAINER GARDENING:

Beans (Pole and Bush types)

Direct sow into containers when night temperatures reach 60 degrees F, 6“ minimum soil depth, full sun, and harvest in mid-late summer, Provide a trellis or climbing structure
Beets – Direct sow into containers in early spring and late summer, 6” minimum soil depth, full sun to partial shade, harvest early summer and again in fall
Carrots (Nantes, Round, or Finger-type are best for containers) –  Direct sow into containers when night temperatures reach 60 degrees F, 8” minimum soil depth, full sun, harvest in summer through fall.
Cucumbers (vine or bush-types) –  Direct sow into containers when the day temperatures reach 70 degrees F or start indoors and transplant, 10” minimum soil depth, full sun, harvest in summer, Provide a trellis or climbing structure for vine-types.
Eggplant –  Start inside 8 weeks before temperatures usually reach 80 degrees F for your area, then transplant to your container, 10” minimum soil depth, full sun, and harvest late summer.
 Leafy Greens (Swiss chards, Collards, Kales, Mustards, Asian Greens, Pak Choy) –  Direct sow into containers when the nighttime temperatures are above freezing, or, start indoors 3-4 weeks before and transplant, 8” minimum soil depth, full sun to partial shade, harvest late spring through winter.
Lettuces and Salad greens –  Direct sow into containers after Spring’s last frost date, or start indoors 4 weeks before and transplant after hardening off when about 2 “ tall,  sow seed again in early fall, 6” minimum soil depth, full sun to partial shade, harvest spring through early summer and again in fall.
Onions, Garlic, Leeks – Direct sow into containers after Spring’s last frost date, 6” minimum soil depth for bunching onions and young (green) garlic, 8” for Leeks, full sun, harvest summer to fall.  Mounding soil up around the base of bunching onions and leeks will encourage long white stalks.  Grow garlic in containers to use the green shoots and any small bulb growth.
Peas –  Direct sow into containers when the soil is no longer frozen, Soaking the seeds overnight will speed up germination, use an inoculant (a beneficial bacteria that enables the roots to use the nitrogen pulled from the atmosphere and stored in nodules on the roots), especially when planting into containers with new potting soil.  8” minimum soil depth, full sun, harvest in late spring to early summer with secondary fall crops possible, Provide trellising for vine-types or cages to support bush-types.
Peppers –  Plant seeds indoors, keeping at 80 degrees F for about 2 weeks, starting 10 weeks before nighttime temperatures remain above 55 degrees and daytime temps reach at least 70 degrees.  Transplant into containers after hardening off, 8” minimum soil depth, full sun, and harvest in late summer.
Potatoes –  Plant disease-free seed potatoes in a large container (30” deep, 20” across) filled 1/3 full of potting soil,  5-6 “ apart, and cover with 2 inches of soil, When plants are about 6” tall cover the bottom half with potting soil,  continue doing this as the plant grows until reaching the top of the pot. Full sun, harvest summer to fall.
Radishes –  Direct sow into containers when the soil is no longer frozen and every other week till late spring, 4” minimum soil depth, full sun to light shade, harvest all spring and second harvest in fall.
Spinach –  Direct sow into containers when the soil is no longer frozen, replant first of August for fall, 6” minimum soil depth, full sun to partial shade, harvest in spring, early summer, and fall.
Squash (zucchini, yellow summer, yellow crookneck, patty pan, mini pumpkins) – Plant seeds indoors 2-3 weeks before the spring last frost date, transplant into sunny, warm containers, and cover with a row cover for several days, 10” minimum soil depth, full sun, harvest summer to early fall, pick when young and small, provide trellis and support for vines.
Tomatoes –  Plant seeds indoors keeping them at 75 degrees F for about 2 weeks, starting 6-8 weeks before Spring’s last frost date, transplant at least once to another larger pot when they have 3 sets of true leaves burying them up to the first set of true leaves, keep in good light, 12” minimum soil depth, full sun, harvest late summer and fall.
Herbs –   Herbs are mostly perfect plants for container gardens, being small and not fussy.

5 Easy Tips for Successfully Planting Grass Seed

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Five easy tips for successfully planting grass seed.

 

by Sam Doll

Now that fall is nearly upon us, it’s time to start thinking about planting grass seed! Don’t know what you are doing? Don’t worry. We are here to help.

Here are our 5 tips for successfully planting grass seed this season:

 

1.      The Season Matters

While some warm-weather grasses, like bermudagrass, should be planted in early summer, most grasses need mild weather to successfully germinate and survive. Freezes and harsh heat can kill off your baby grass before it has a chance to become established. Late Spring and early Fall, when the soil temperature is between 50 to 80 degrees, is the best time to plant most grass seeds.

2.      Find the Right Seed

Find the grass that will suit your lifestyle and location. Some mixes, like our Green Manure and Cool Season Cover Crop, are great for restoring the soil nutrients in your soil. Some, like our Colorado Supreme Turf Grass Mix, are better for heavy foot traffic. Native and drought-tolerant grasses are great for creating a sustainable and low-maintenance landscape. Make sure to consider your soil type, climate, amount of sun, and intended use when picking a grass mix.

We have a wide variety of grass mixes that will suit all your needs.

3.      Prepare Your Soil

Once you’ve chosen your site, use a shovel or a sod cutter to remove the existing plants and grass from the area. Remove any debris and rocks you see, till the soil, and fill in any low spots. You want your soil to be broken into pebble-sized particles.

Rake the site to even out the soil and remove small debris. Be careful when bringing in new topsoil to make sure it doesn’t contain unwanted weed seeds.

Optional: You can send a soil sample to your local extension office to have it tested to see if you need any soil amendments. You can find extension offices near you with the help of this tool from GardeningKnowHow.com.

As for pH, you generally want to keep the soil between 6.0 and 7.0.

4.      Seed and Fertilize

Once your site is prepped, it’s time for planting your grass seed! Using a drop spreader or a broadcast spreader, spread half the seed lengthwise over your site, then use the other half and spread crosswise over your site.  A recommended seeding rate will be listed on the seed tag.

Feeding with starter (weak) fertilizer the same day as you spread seed will provide proper nutrients for early growth and establishment. Make sure the site stays moist, but not soggy, through germination.

5.      Maintenance

Different mixes require different maintenance. Generally, once grass reaches 5-6 inches (for turf type), it is recommended to cut it to encourage even growth. Water and fertilize as needed.

 

We hope these tips will make planting grass seed a breeze for you! If you still have questions or need any other advice, please don’t hesitate to contact us.

 

Our Ultimate Milkweed Growing Guide

Our Ultimate Milkweed Growing Guide

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Growing milkweed graphic with a Butterfly on a milkweed flower.

Tips for Planting and Growing Milkweed Successfully 

by Sam Doll

Milkweeds are hardy, perennial wildflowers found throughout North America. Some species can grow up to six feet tall and they produce beautiful, fragrant flower clusters. Since they’re common ingredients in traditional medicine, their genus name, Asclepias, comes from the Greek god of medicine.

Milkweed has gotten a bad rap over the years. Allergies and perceptions of the wildflower as a weed have caused it to be wiped out throughout large portions of North America.

This is bad news for the Monarch Butterfly. Monarch mothers will only lay their eggs on milkweed plants (genus Asclepias) and, once hatched, their caterpillars exclusively live on and eat the leaves of those same plants. They cannot survive without them.  The prevalence of pesticides has not helped and the loss of milkweed, wildflowers, and other floral resources has devastated the monarch butterfly population. However, by restoring Milkweed to urban and wild landscapes, we can begin the process of saving the Monarch Butterfly! And our Ultimate Milkweed Growing Guide is here to help.

Don’t have your seeds yet? Check out our Complete Milkweed Buying Guide for all you need to know about our Milkweed Products!

Milkweed Growing Guide Table of Contents

  • Prep
  • Planting
  • Transplanting

Why all these steps?

Milkweed seed has a high percentage of dormancy, which means many of the seeds won’t germinate without a little special treatment or might need to age for a season. Since we want to make sure you have complete success with our seeds, here are some tips!

Prep:

Milkweed seeds need to be exposed to cold temperatures that normally occur in winter to help break their natural dormancy and begin to soften their hard outer casing. If you are planning to start your Milkweeds indoors, you will need to do this cold stratification yourself.

You can do this by putting your Milkweed seed in a damp paper towel, folding it to fit into a sealed plastic bag, then placing the bag into the refrigerator. Keep it there for 4-6 weeks before planting.

Planting:

Plant your seeds in small 2-4″ peat pots (recommended) or tall plastic pots. Make sure to use ‘seed-starting’ soil or medium. Moisten the soil, place 1-2 seeds into each pot and cover with no more than 1/6″ damp soil or medium.

Place the pots where they can drain. Water gently or fill a tray with 1/2” of water to be absorbed from the bottom of the peat pots. Dump the excess water after absorption.  Water when the top of the soil is dry and be mindful to not overwater.

Milkweed seeds germinate in warm conditions, so place your tray of pots in a warm spot like a sunny window, greenhouse, or under a grow light. Germination usually occurs after 10-15 days for cold-stratified seeds. To encourage sturdy stems, place your grow light bulb close to the soil. Sometimes a small fan blowing gently towards the new seedlings will encourage sturdier stems.

Other planting methods: Plant non-stratified seed into peat pots filled with seed-starting soil or medium. Moisten, and place in a greenhouse or under a grow light. Germination in this scenario might take several months.

If planting outside, seed in late fall. Let the Milkweed seed remain over the winter. This will accomplish the cold-stratification, needed. Germination should occur when the soil warms and the days are longer.

Oh, and while you’re at it, check out our Monarch Rescue Wildflower Mix. It has Butterfly Milkweed and a mix of other wildflower seeds to provide a nectar-rich place for Monarch Butterflies to fuel up and raise their young! Find it here!

Transplanting:

When the danger of frost is past and your plants reach 2-3″ tall, you can transplant outdoors. Choose a location in full sun if possible.

Milkweed produces a long taproot, so take care to not disturb the roots. Plant peat pots so that the top edge of the small pot is underground to avoid drying out. If your Milkweed seedlings were planted in plastic pots, be extremely careful with the roots. Continue to water after planting until plants become established. Once they are established, you can taper off your watering unless the season is extremely dry. The newly planted Milkweed seedlings may lose all their leaves due to transplant shock but should grow them back again.

Congratulations!

You’re now a proud Milkweed parent! Now just sit back and watch the Monarch Butterflies arrive!

P.S. – Save our Milkweed Growing Guide for next year by bookmarking this page on your browser.

*Note that all Milkweed contains cardiac glycosides, chemicals that are toxic when eaten. These chemicals, in turn, make the Monarch Butterflies toxic to any would-be predators. Avoid letting livestock and small children eat milkweed and wash any skin that comes in contact with the sap to avoid irritation.

Learn more about the Monarch Butterfly Migration by checking out this Blog post!

Monarch graphic.

The Complete Milkweed Buying Guide

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Photo of a colorful Monarch catapiller feeding on a milkweed leaf.

What Species of Milkweed is Best For You

By Sam Doll

Monarch Butterflies are amazing North American animals! Their iconic, colorful wings are actually warnings for potential predators. Those spots and strips are big caution signs saying: STOP; I TASTE BAD!

Every year, the Monarchs embark on one of nature’s most astonishing mass migrations. This incredible journey takes four generations and covers over 3000 miles through the United States, Mexico and Canada.

Monarch mothers will only lay their eggs on milkweed plants (genus Asclepias) and, once hatched, their caterpillars exclusively live on and eat the leaves of those same plants. They cannot survive without them.

The problem is that milkweed has gotten a bad rap over the years. Allergies and perceptions of the wildflower as a weed have caused it to be wiped out throughout large portions of North America. The prevalence of pesticides has not helped and the loss of milkweed, wildflowers, and other floral resources has devastated the monarch butterfly’s population.

It’s not without hope, though! Everyone can do their part to help. The most important thing you can do is to plant more milkweed on your property and in your community. This guide to purchasing milkweed seed will help you figure out which species of milkweed is best for you, and you can help Monarch Butterflies!

Oh, and while you’re at it, check out our Monarch Rescue Wildflower Mix. It has Butterfly Milkweed and a mix of other wildflower seeds to provide a nectar-rich place for Monarch Butterflies to fuel up and raise their young! Find it here!

1.     Common MilkweedClose-up of the Common Milkweed flower.

The Common Milkweed is a hardy perennial with fragrant, terminal blossoms made up of tiny dusty-pink blossoms on hairy stems.  This milkweed is found throughout the Great Plains and is tough enough to tolerate most soil conditions. It does well in soils that are clay, sandy or rocky calcareous (high in calcium carbonate). These conditions occur naturally along stream banks, ponds, lakes, forest margins, and roadsides. Common Milkweed grows 2′ – 6′ tall and like areas with full sun. They bloom from June through September and will germinate between 65° and 85° F.

This milkweed is also a favorite of other butterflies, native bees and hummingbirds. The seeds will grow easily and do well when planted in the fall or when cold-treated for three months prior to planting.  Common Milkweed will spread both through seed normal distribution and as well as through underground shoots. Common milkweed spread readily and may need to be controlled. Common milkweed is particularly good for wetland rehabilitation and as a component in wildlife seed mixtures.

2.     Showy MilkweedThe fluffy seeds of the Showy Milkweed plant.

Similar to the Common Milkweed, this hardy perennial is a favorite of butterflies.  This species has traditionally provided food, medicine and fiber to indigenous peoples. The clusters of star-shaped flowers will range from dark-rose to white. The plant has tall woody stems with milky sap and with alternate, oval leaves that are velvety underneath. Showy Milkweed grows 24” – 36” tall and like areas with full sun. They bloom from May through July and will germinate between 65° and 85° F.

These plants grow well in a variety of locations from prairies and open woodlands to roadsides.  The seeds are very easy to grow and do well when planted in the fall or when cold-treated for three months prior to planting.  Showy Milkweed will spread through seed distribution and underground shoots

3.     Butterfly MilkweedClose-up photo of the blossoms of the Butterflyweed.

Also known as Butterflyweed, this hardy perennial. Unlike their cousins, this species lacks the milky sap that gives milkweed their namesake. The clusters of flowers will range from dark orange to white on tall woody stems with smooth shiny leaves that are velvety underneath.  The blooms begin in May and will last through July. These plants will grow between 12”-24” and perform well in a variety of locations; from prairies and open woodlands to roadsides.

Butterfly Milkweed is only pollinated by large insects. This trait is common among fall wildflowers, many of which depend on specific pollinators to survive. Butterfly Milkweed pollen is contained in a heavy, sticky structure called pollinium. Since these pollinium structures are so large and sticky, only larger insect pollinators can fly with them. There are several nectaries per flower and multiple flowers per bloom, which makes these flowers great pollen and nectar resources

The seeds will grow well when planted in the fall or when cold-treated for three months prior to planting in the Spring. Butterfly Milkweed will spread through seed distribution and underground shoots.

4.     Swamp MilkweedThe pink blossoms of the Swamp Milkweed with a visiting wasp.

 

The Swamp Milkweed is widely distributed across the U.S. and Canada; from Quebec and Maine south to Florida and Texas and west to Nevada and Idaho. This species prefers neutral to slightly acidic soil, although it will tolerate a pH up to 8.0. It has high moisture requirements, and it is usually found in wet habitats such as meadows, riverbanks, pond shores, stream banks, wet woods, swamps, and marshes, although it will also grow in drier areas such as prairies, fields, and roadsides. Swamp milkweed needs full sun or partial shade to flourish.

The plant grows into a two=foot tall perennial with fragrant, terminal blossoms made up of tiny rosy-purple blossoms.  This milkweed prefers average to very moist soils, will tolerate heavy clay soils and is easy to start from seed and deer resistant.  Like most milkweed, Swamp Milkweed seeds are easy to grow and do well when planted in the fall or when cold-treated for three months prior to planting.  Swamp Milkweed will spread through seed distribution and underground shoots.

Like the Common Milkweed, Swamp Milkweed is great for wetland rehabilitation and as a component in wildlife seed mixtures.

 

5.     Bloodflower MilkweedThe varigated orange and yellow blossoms of the Bloodflower Milkweed.

Bloodflower Milkweed, also known as Tropical Milkweed, is winter hardy in zones 9-11 and is easily grown from seed each year as an annual.  It is great for attracting hummingbirds, butterflies and a wide variety of pollinators.  Showy red-orange flowers with yellow hoods in rounded clusters grow on upright stems with medium-green, glossy, pointed leaves.  Attractive foliage and flowers for beds, borders, cottage gardens, meadows and butterfly gardens. It is also a good cut flower. Dried seed pods are attractive in arrangements.  Monarch Butterflies lay their eggs on the leaves and the larvae feed on the plants. Plant in rich, well-drained soil.  These have a longer blooming period than most other milkweeds, ranging from June through October.

This milkweed is not native to North America and can potentially be invasive in warmer climates. If you’re one of our Southern friends, monitor your plantings and keep out of wild lands and ranches and cut the foliage to the ground in the winter to avoid luring Monarchs away from their migratory paths.

*Note that all milkweed contains cardiac glycosides, chemicals that are toxic when eaten. These chemicals, in turn, make the Monarch Butterflies toxic to any would-be predators. Avoid letting livestock and small children eat milkweed and wash any skin that comes in contact with the sap to avoid irritation.

Learn more about the Monarch Butterfly Migration by checking out this Blog post!

Monarch graphic.

 

 

 

 

 

Nasturtiums!

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Wildflower Seeds

by Heather StonePhoto of red nasturtium blooms.

The bright, rich colors of nasturtium flowers make an impact along the edge of the border, in a pot or climbing a wall or trellis. Their gorgeous rounded leaves, much like a water lily, are a vibrant shade of green with a few varieties having variegated leaves. These easy to grow annuals deserve a place in any garden.

 

Growing Nasturtiums is easy from seed. Sow directly in the garden starting in late spring after all chances of frost have passed. If you want to get a head start you can plant seeds indoors 3-4 weeks before your last frost date. Plant the seeds ½- 1” deep and about 10” apart. Nasturtium seeds are large and germinate quickly (5-7 days) which makes them a great seed to plant with children. Nasturtiums can be grown in full sun or part shade. They prefer a leaner soil and do not need to be fertilized. Keep them watered during dry spells and remove spent blossoms to encourage prolonged blooming.

 

Flower colors range from orange to red to yellow, peach and even burgundy. Both the flowers and leaves of the nasturtium plant are edible. The flowers have a peppery flavor and make a bright addition to any salad. They are delicious stuffed with soft cheese or can be used to make an infused vinegar.

Photo of red nasturtium blooms.

Nasturtiums make great edging plants. I especially like to use them along the edges in my vegetable garden where they spill over the sides of my raised beds and attract the bumblebees. They are also great tucked into bare spots in the garden. The climbing varieties can share space with roses and clematis in the perennial garden or beans and cucumbers in the vegetable garden.

 

Bring these gorgeous and tasty flowers to your garden by planting our Alaska Mix Nasturtium